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 Kas?m Cindemir, "Mutfa??n antropolo?u", H?rriyet Gazetesi, 7 Haziran 2004
ABD’de yay?nlanan ‘Food&W?ne’ Dergisi, ‘a???lar?n a???s?’ diye tan?mlad??? Musa Da?deviren ve baz? yemek tariflerine son say?s?nda sekiz sayfa ay?rd?.
Food & Wine dergisi, temmuz say?s?nda, ‘T?rkiye’nin Usta A???s?’ ba?l???yla Musa Da?deviren’i 8 sayfal?k yaz? ve 15 foto?rafla tan?tt?. Dergi, Kad?k?y’deki ?iya Restoran’?n sahibi ve a???s? olan Musa Da?deviren’i ‘Anadolu mutfa??n?n ?nc?s?’ olarak niteledi. Yazar Paula Wolfert, Da?deviren’in bir ‘mutfak antropologu’ oldu?unu belirtti ve Anadolu’nun y?resel yemeklerini ‘s?n?r?tesi damak tatlar? ve tarifelerle bulu?turdu?unu’ kaydetti.
YEME?? YOKSUL YARATIR
Musa Da?deviren, dergideki r?portajda ?unlar? s?yledi:
‘K?rsal alan?n en iyi ve unutulmu? yemeklerini korumaya ?al???yorum. T?rkiye’nin her yerini dola??yorum. Yeni fikirler i?in insanlarla kayna??yorum. Yoksul insanlar?n yeni yemeklerini ??renince heyecan duyuyorum. Ben, en iyi yemekleri yoksullar?n yarataca??na inan?yorum. Zengin olan, her ?eyi sat?n alabilir. Ama hi?bir ?eyi olmayanlar, yaratmak zorundad?r.’
Paula Wolfert, Da?deviren’in, daha be? ya??ndayken ayaklar?yla domates ezerek mutfak ve yemek i?ini ??renmeye ba?lad???n? kaydetti.
Yazar Wolfert, Musa Da?deviren’in ?iya’da, her y?l bini a?k?n yemek ?e?idi haz?rlad???n? ve 50 ayr? kebap t?r? yapt???n? yazd?. Wolfert, ‘Da?deviren’in repertuvar?nda y?zlerce ?orba var. Bir yeme?i yedin mi, onu bir daha bulman?n ?ans? ?ok az. Asla d?? k?r?kl??? yok. ?stanbul’daki son gecemizde, Musa 26 ?e?it yemek haz?rlam??t?’ dedi.
Sunay Ak?n, "Yeme?in ilham perileri!..", Sabah Cumartesi, 1 May?s 2004
Son y?llarda yemek kitaplar? ve televizyon kanallar?ndaki yemek programlar? say?s?nda g?zle g?r?l?r bir art?? var. Benimse bu konuda akl?ma ilk gelen, II. D?nya Sava?? s?ras?nda ?lkesi Naziler taraf?ndan i?gal edildi?inde lokantac? Marcellin Duprat'n?n ?u s?zleridir: "Politikac?lar ihanet etmi?tir, generaller kof ??km??t?r ama b?y?k Frans?z mutfa?? sonuna de?in savunulacakt?r." Duprat, i?kence alt?nda bile direnmi?, Nazilere Frans?z yemeklerinin tariflerini vermemi?tir! Bizde de y?zy?l? a?k?n bir tarihe sahip olan lokantalar vard?r. Bunlar aras?nda ?zellikle anmam?z gereken Bursa'daki "Kebap?? ?skender"dir. 1867 y?l?nda, kentin Kayhan ?ar??s?'nda Mehmet o?lu ?skender Efendi taraf?ndan icat edilen ?skender d?ner kebap, o g?n bug?nd?r T?rk mutfa??n?n vazge?ilmezleri aras?ndad?r. Yavuz ?skendero?lu, ?ubelerinin yan?nda, Bursa'daki Botanik Bah?esi'nde bir de "M?ze Restaurant" a?t?. Yolum ne zaman Bursa'dan ge?se, mutlaka u?rar?m bu g?zel mekana. Bu sefer, Asu adl? bir gen? k?z ?skender d?ner kebab? mideye indirdikten sonra bir ?eyler yazmam dile?iyle an? defterini koydu ?n?me. D???ncelerimi yazmadan ?nce okumaya ba?lad?m benden ?nce yaz?lanlar?. Kimler ??kmad? ki kar??ma! ??te, sevgili Selim ?leri'nin yazd?klar?: "?u anda ?ok zarif Yavuz ?skender Bey'in M?ze Restoran'?nda bir incelik ?rg?s? i?indeyiz."
KONUKLARIN ?? D?NYASI
?skender Kebap??s?'n?n an? defterine yaz? yazanlar bu samimi, s?cak ortamda i? d?nyalar?n? ele veriyor, ister istemez. Selim ?leri'nin yazd?klar? kitaplar? gibi ince ve zarif. G?rer Aykal da defterde kendisi i?in ayr?lan sayfada y?re?ini ele veriyor: "Dilerim Bursa Devlet Senfoni Orkestras? da ?skender gibi ileri y?llara de?i?meyen kalitesiyle ula??r, Avrupa ?lkeleri orkestralar?na ?rnek olur." Metin Akp?nar! Evet, bu b?y?k usta da Bursa'da M?ze Restaurant'a u?ram??, karn?n? doyurmak i?in. Eh, kap?dan i?eri giren Metin Akp?nar olur da, an? defteri ?ekmecesinden ??kar?lmaz m?? Akp?nar da, g?nl?n? seriyor deftere: "Belle?im g?zel an?larla yinelendi. Rahmetli hocam Ulvi Uraz'la ilk kez gitti?im ?skender kebap??s?n?n yeni mekan?na yeni ula?t?m."
G?ZEL D?LEKLER
Marmara ?niversitesi ?lahiyat Fak?ltesi ??retim ?yelerinden Prof Dr. Mustafa Kara, ?tekiler gibi kendi penceresinden bakarak ?unlar? yazm?? an? defterine: "Allah'?n nimetlerini insanlara sunan g?zel bir mesle?in insanlar?... O'nun nimetlerine ??kreden bir insan olabilirsek ne mutlu bize." Say?n Kara, son derece ak olan ?u g?zel d???ncelerle koyuyor son noktas?n?: "Bu nimetlere sahip olamayanlar? unutmayanlara da ne mutlu!" Defterin ilk sayfas?n? ise, a??l??? yapan Ba?bakan Recep Tayip Erdo?an yazm??: "Kazanc?n?z bol ve bereketli olsun." Lokantalar?n an? defterleri ?nemlidir; konuklar?n duygular?n?, d???ncelerini, ya?ama nas?l bir pencereden bakt?klar?n?n birer delilidir, bu defterlerin sayfalar?. ?stanbul'da, Sultanahmet köftecisi'nin an? defterlerinin birinde, Hilmi Yavuz'un ba?ka hi?bir yerde okuyamayaca??n?z bir ?iiri oldu?unu biliyor muydunuz? "17.1.1990" tarihli ?iiri, k??emizde ilk kez g?n ?????na ??karal?m: Bu lezzet-i zaikaya bigane bir köftehor ??karsa, derim: ?nsaf! G?r?l?r m? köfte, hor? An? defterlerinin sayfalar?nda ?airleri en ?ok bar?nd?ran, hi? ??phesiz ki, ?stanbul, Bostanc?'daki Hatay Lokantas?'d?r. Sanat??lar?n u?rak yeri olan bu se?kin mekan?n masalar?nda oturmayan ?air yok gibidir. Sultanahmet köftecisi'nin defterlerinde de, Hatay Lokantas? kadar olmasa da ?airler ??kar kar??m?za. Buyurun, bunlar da Cevat ?apan ustam?z?n köfteleri mideye indirirken yazd??? dizeler: D?n?lmez, biz piyaza ve köfteye y?neldik A?l??? ve susuzlu?u kand?rmak de?il niyet Daha ?ok Mehmet karde?imizle muhabbet Hasreti dindirip köfteyle piyaz? bahane ettik Ben, yemek konusunda bu i?in ustas? olarak Musa Da?deviren'- i ayakta alk??lar?m. O, T?rk mutfa??n? ?ok iyi tan?yan ve g?n?l veren birka? insandan biridir. Kad?k?y'deki ?iya Lokantalar?'n?n sahibi olan Da?deviren, ger?ek anlam?yla bir ara?t?rmac? a???d?r! Hatta, "Bu i?in piri Musa Da?deviren'dir" desem, inan?n abartm?? olmam. Sanki, Promete ate?i, Musa Da?deviren yemek yaps?n diye Zeus'tan ?alm??! Yurtd???ndan bir arkada??m gelse, yemek k?lt?r?m?z? tan?mas? i?in mutlaka ?iya'ya g?t?r?r?m. Yaln?zca lezzetten de?il, ?deyece?i hesaptan da memnun kalarak ayr?l?yor insan ?iya'dan. Masalar?na onca kez oturdu?um ?iya'da da, bir defter konuldu ?n?me!... "Eee, Sunay Ak?n, bunun i?in mi o kadar ?vd?n ?iya'y??" demeyin sak?n. Unutmay?n ki, beyninizi kand?rabilirsiniz ama midenizi asla!
DERG?LER? DE VAR
?iya'da ?n?me konulan?n defter olmad???n? sayfalar?n? ?evirince anlad?m. Bir dergiydi bana uzat?lan; "?iya Yay?nlar?" ad?yla ?? ayda bir ??kan "Yemek ve K?lt?r" ad?nda bir dergi!.. ??inde Ferit Edg?, ?lber Ortayl?, Toktam?? Ate? gibi yaz?lar?n? ilgiyle takip etti?im Aydınlar?n denemelerinin yan? s?ra, Mazhar Naz?m, Cafer Zorlu, Ferit ?ng?ren, Tan Oral'?n ?izgileri ve Oktay Rifat'la Ceyhun Atuf Kansu'nun ?iirleri kar??lad? beni. Kendi alan?nda bir ilk olan bu dergiyle ?iya, m??terilerinin yaln?zca dama?? ya da midesiyle de?il, beyniyle de ilgilendi?ini kan?tlam?? oluyor. Musa Da?deviren, 1965 y?l?nda, Nizip'te ??rak olarak bu mesle?e nas?l ba?lad???n? "F?r?nc?" adl? yaz?s?nda anlat?yor bizlere. Bu ?yk?y? okuduktan sonra, ?iya'da yedi?im yemeklerin, kebaplar?n tad? daha da artt?. Musa Usta yaln?zca f?r?na s?rd??? hamura lezzet katmam??, "Yemek ve K?lt?r" adl? dergiyle ka??t hamuruna da g?zellikler katm??. Ellerinize sa?l?k sevgili Zeynep ve sevgili Musa; derginiz de en az yemekleriniz kadar "tad?na doyulmaz" olmu?!..
Gina Mallet, "Fast Food, Delicious Nation - Savouring the delights of Turkish Food", National Post - Canada, 22 May?s 2004
The sky is the baby blue of the Sultan's tiles in the Topkapi, the Bosphorous brisk as I take the ferry from the old city of Istanbul to the Asian side and walk up the hill to Kadikoy Carsisi, a food cornucopia. Stalls overflow with fresh fruit and vegetables, cherries aplenty, mulberries just coming in, fat strawberries, chartreuse fava beans, inky eggplant and artichokes stripped to the heart on the stalk. Fish from the Bosphorous glisten on marble, popple-skinned turbots and sardines swimming in fishbowls. Honeybees buzz around piles of honeycombs over which a salesman is pouring honey. A goose hiss?es at the pale village eggs, laid today, which lie blameless on straw. Bread, the particular glory of Turkey, is everywhere, from the sesame-coated simit, bagel-like but tastier, to pide, a rich flat bread.
I've come to this market to taste the real thing - Turkish food shorn of Western commercialization, the dry kebabs and the sickly-stale baklava.
I'm starting on Guneslibahce Street, where Musa Dagdeviren, a tall, jolly fellow from Eastern Turkey, is going to show me how to make pilav, the national dish. Musa is a magical cook who plays the huge repertoire of Turkish food like a virtuoso. He makes 100 kinds of pilav alone, not to mention all the other flaky and vegetable purses of meat and cheese, the spicy purees, the irresistible skewers of grilled meat. I am welcomed in one of his three restaurants, all called Ciya and all within hailing distance of each other, with food and more food.
It's hard to stop eating. Zeynep, first a customer, then his wife, now manager, orders tea in little glasses. Now to work. In his tiny kitchen, Musa has laid out the ingredients for his most popular pilav, called cirisli: Turkish olive oil, yellow wheat bulgur, viridian pistachios, cumin, tomato and paprika paste, onions, garlic, and a big pile of wild greens. Although he's cooking for six only, he tosses the onions and oil into a large cauldron. Easier, he signals with his hands, to stir with a ladle. When the onions are translucent he adds minced garlic and the bulgur, stirs, and then adds everything else, puts the cover on and allows the pilav to cook. The result is a deep mahogany pilav, light and complex.
We wash it down with ayran - yoghurt and mineral water - served in pewter cups. And Musa has unique desserts. A candied baby eggplant stuffed with nuts! A preserved tomato like a soft-centred jelly.
Musa's restaurants are open all day every day, and every day he serves around 1,000 people. A plate of Inezes (hors d'oeuvres) includes a little egg-plant, sun-dried then stuffed, vine leaves enveloping rice and meat, a frizzled lamb patty, slivers of cucumber in the richest, creamiest yoghurt.
Musa picks up an iceberg lettuce leaf and stuffs it with spicy sausage - a sandwich! Green Pilavı Dogon, my guide, translates as Musa doesn't speak a word of English. Green rice is rice before it is actually rice. Very delicate. Musa serves 15 kinds of wild plants, and he gets out his laptop to show me pictures of a recent foray in the countryside. How about a glass of turnip juice? With a chunk of turnip in it? Tamarind juice is sublime. The wood oven debouches three treats: a little disc of Turkish pizza topped with minced meat, onion and tomato; a small potted pilav (shredded chicken, currents, almonds, rice, with a crispy pastry shroud); and bread that looks like a balloon. Musa squashes it, slathers on butter and cheese.
Deniz ERB?L, "En iyi G?neydo?u yemekleri ?iya Sofras?'nda", Sabah Cumartesi, 2 Nisan 2004
Kad?k?y ?ar??s? i?inde birbirine ?ok yak?n, ikisi kebap, biri tencere yemekleri sunan ?? ?iya var. Hepsinin yemekleri birbirinden nefis
Do?ma b?y?me bir Kad?k?yl? olarak Kad?k?y ?ar??s?n?n giderek canl?l???n?, renklili?ini yitirmekte olu?una ?z?l?r?m. Hemen her mahallede a??lan dev marketler, S???tl??e?me'de kurulan ve giderek b?y?y?p geni?leyen "sal? pazar?" gibi b?y?k ve kapsaml? pazarlar ?ocuklu?umun o zengin ?ar??s?n? geriletti. Asl?nda Kad?k?y ?ar??s?'n?n en g?rkemli zamanlar?nda bile kalabal?klar ak?am saatlerinde da??l?r, d?kkanlar bir bir kapand?ktan sonra buralar terkedilir, karanl??a b?r?n?rd?. Oysa son y?llarda ilgin? bir de?i?im ortaya ??kt?.
?ar??n?n eskiden beri en sakin, en az u?ran?lan kesimi, bir zamanlar tek t?k zahire d?kkan?n?n yan? s?ra Ordu Pazar?'n?n bulundu?u b?lge ??len ve ak?am saatlerinde dolup bo?almaya ba?lad?. Bunun nedeni ise 1987 y?l?nda burada k???k bir kebap?? olarak a??lan, bug?nse ayn? ad? ta??yan restoranlar?n say?s? ??e ??km?? bulunan ?iya... G?neydo?u mutfa?? a??rl?kl? yemekleri ve kebaplar? ile ?nlenen ?iya grubu lokantalar?n ard?nda, benzeri t?m s?rad??? restoranlarda oldu?u gibi, yine bu i?e g?n?l vermi?, kendini adam?? bir ki?i yat?yor: Musa Da?deviren. Musa Da?deviren, uyku d???nda kalan zaman?n?n t?m?n? daha iyi, daha ?zg?n yemekleri pi?irip yemekseverlere sunmaya adam?? bir ki?i. Gaziantep, Nizipli. Daha be? ya??ndayken bir akrabas?n?n f?r?n?nda ??rak olarak ?al??maya ba?lam??. Ya?am m?cadelesi u?runa yapt??? birbirinden farkl? say?s?z i? genellikle f?r?nc?l?kla ilgili konularda yo?unla?m??. Bu sayede, Musa Da?deviren, ??rakl???n ard?ndan ustal??a giden yolda tencere yemeklerinden kebap ve lahmacunlara kadar mahalli spesiyalitelerin inceliklerini ??renmi?. 1980'lerin ba?lar?nda ?stanbul'a gelmi?. 1987'de a?t??? ?iya onun kendine ait ilk restoran?. 1990'da ?imdi e?i olan Zeynep ?al??kan da restorana kat?lm??. Tencere yemekleri a??rl?kl? ?iya Sofras? 1998'de, ?iya Kebap II ise 2001 y?l?nda a??lm??. ?? restoran aras?nda yirmi?er metre mesafe var. Bir restoran?n men?s?nde olmayan yemekler, di?er lokantadan da getirtilebiliyor ve her restoran?n men?s? birbirinden farkl?. Her ne kadar ?iya Kebap II'de; mevsiminde yeni d?nya kebab?, keme kebab? gibi kebaplar, Nizip yoğurtlusu, g?lbahar kebab?, patates kebab? gibi ?iya'ya ?zg? kebaplar, so?an kebab?, oruk ya da simit kebab? gibi her yerde pek rastlanmayan mahalli kebaplar ve ?ok nefis lahmacun bulabilseniz de, benim as?l favorim, ?iya Sofras? isimli olan?. ??nk? burada T?rkiye'nin her yan?ndan getirilmi? otlar, G?neyDoğu anadolu'ya ?zg?, zaman zaman da s?n?r ?tesinden ula?t?r?lm?? malzemelerle haz?rlanan birbirinden nefis yemekleri bulabilmeniz m?mk?n. ?iya Sofras? i?in Musa Da?deviren esasl? bir lojistik destek a?? olu?turmu?. Taze otlar?n ne kadar narin olduklar?, ta??nma s?ras?nda ne kadar ?abuk bozulduklar? malum. ?rne?in mendi otu Van'dan peynir suyu i?inde, bir t?r hafif salamura edilmi? halde getiriliyor. Mevsimine g?re Ordu'dan, Ege'nin ?e?itli kesimlerinden, Bolu ve civar?ndan sa?lanan otlar ise b?y?k fire vererek ?iya Mutfa??na kadar ula?abiliyor. Bug?nlerde dikenucu, mendi kavurmas?, arapsa?? ve ?sp?t kavurma hen?z yaz s?caklar? tam bast?rmadan bulunabilen nefis mahalli ot spesiyalitelerinden.
SADECE ??K? EKS?K
?iya'ya son gidi?imde, Bingöl'e ?zg? erişte, mercimek, buğday, süzme yoğurt ve nane ile yap?lm?? kesme Çorbası ile yeme?e ba?lad?m. Ard?ndan ortaya; parça koyun eti, nohut ve Patlıcan ile haz?rlanan Kilis'in "te?rube" isimli yeme?ini, i?ine ince k?y?m parça et, pirinç, havu? ve dereotu doldurulmu?, Ege'de de ayn? ad? ta??yan yemekten ?ok farkl? bir enginar dolmas?n?, Antep'in kuzu ba??rsa?? ile yap?lan mumbar dolmas?n?, yan?nda yoğurt sosu ile, Ortado?u'nun bakla ve nohutla yap?lm?? ?nl? köftesi, felafeli, kiraz ve ya?s?z Dövme kıyma ile pi?irilmi? Suriye'nin "lahm? kiraz" adl? yeme?ini ve nihayet bir tabak da kar???k ot salata ve kavurmalar?n? getirttik. Ismarlad???m?z yemeklerin adlar?n? ve i?erdikleri malzemeleri ?zellikle ayr?nt?l? yazmaya gayret ettim. Gerek bunlar?, gerekse men?de oldu?u halde tadamad???m?z daha nice spesiyalitelerin t?m?n?, de?il ?stanbul'un herhangi bir lokantas?nda yiyebilmek, G?neyDoğu anadolu b?lgemizde bile men?s?nde hepsini bulunduran bir lokantaya rastlamak ?ok zor. Yemekte i?ki yok. Giderek daha fazla yabanc?n?n geldi?i bu restoranda onlar?n ve yemekte i?ki i?me al??kanl??? olanlar?n yad?rgad??? bir durum bu. Ancak bu yemeklerin yendi?i mahalli ortamlarda da genelde i?ki i?ilmedi?ini d???n?l?rse, bir ?l??de bu eksikli?i ho?g?rmek m?mk?n. Ayr?ca ?iya'da ba?ta demirhindi olmak ?zere unutulmaya y?z tutmu? bir?ok ?erbet ?e?idi her g?n taze olarak ?retilip sunuluyor. Yeme?in ?zerine kire? kayma??na yat?r?larak ham cevizden haz?rlanm?? ceviz tatl?s?n?, Hatay'?n, san?r?m turun? kabu?undan yap?lm?? kibbet tatl?s?n?, Adana'n?n domates tatl?s?n?, Hatay usul?, ?zeri tahinli k?t?r k?t?r bir ?ekerlemeye d?n??t?r?lm?? kabak tatl?s?n? ve nihayet Antep'in ??biyet tatl?s?n? birer lokma tatt?k. Bu yemek ??leninin ?zerine ?smarlad???m?z kahve ise tek aksayan yan oldu.
Sipari? bir t?rl? gelmedi, gelen kahve de tatmin edici olmaktan uzakt?. ?iya'n?n yemek ve kebaplar?n?n t?m?n? tatmak isteyenler birka? g?n ?st ?ste buraya gelmeli. O da yetmiyor, her mevsimde yeni malzemeler ortaya ??kt??? i?in, men? ?ok h?zl? de?i?iyor. Suriye'den bir torba yer alt? mantar?, keme getirildi?inde, bir iki g?n keme ile yap?lm?? yemek ve kebaplar? bulabiliyorsunuz; o g?n hangi ot geldiyse, o ot servise ??k?yor. Dolay?s?yla ?iya'da s?rprizlerin sonu yok. Bu ziyafetin bedeli ise ??k bir restoranda yenecek bir tabak yeme?in fiyat?n?n alt?nda. ??te bu nedenle Kad?k?y ?ar??s?'n?n bu kesimi her g?n ve her ak?am a?z?n?n tad?n? bilenlerce dolup ta??yor.
Asl? ?ak?r, "Bence yeme?in ?yk?s? ?nemli, tarifi de?il", Milliyet Gazetesi, 11 Nisan 2004
Amerikal? ?nl? yemek yazar? Paula Wolfert be?inci kez T?rkiye'de. "Hava atmak isteyenler deneysel yemekleri tatmaya bay?l?yor. Ama ben etle birlikte karamel istemem" diyen Wolfert, hakk?nda yaz? yazmak i?in geldi?i ?iya'da ne yese "Nefis" diye niteledi
Paula Wolfert d?nyaca ?nl? yemek dergilerinden biri olan Food&Wine'da k??e yazar?. ?imdi T?rkiye'de. Amerika'dan buraya gelmesinin nedeni ise Kad?k?y'deki ?iya restoran ve sahibi Musa Da?deviren.
Wolfert daha ?nce be? kez ?lkemizde bulunmu?. G?neyDoğu anadolu'ya gitmi?, sonra Trabzon, Kars, Ordu derken t?m T?rk yemeklerini ?o?umuzdan daha iyi bilir hale gelmi?. Biz onu ?iya'da yakalad?k. Nefis dedi?i ?i?köfteleri yerken foto?raflad?k. 66 ya??ndaki Wolfert s?rekli g?l?yor. "Hayatta e?lenmelisin ki ge? ya?lanas?n, bak benim k?r???kl?klar?m bile ?ok az" diyor.
Wolfert'?n hayat? ger?ekten e?lenceli. Geziyor, yiyor, i?iyor, insanlar?n ve yemeklerinin ?yk?lerini ??reniyor. Sonra da t?m bunlar? yaz?p dergiye veriyor. Ne kadar kazand???n? bilmiyoruz ama bu seyahatlerin masraflar?n? kendisinin kar??lad???n? belirtiyor. "Ama foto?raf??n?n paras?n? dergi veriyor" diyor bize.
Bu deneyimlerini sadece dergiye de?il kitaplar?na da aktar?yor. Wolfert'?n Akdeniz mutfa?? ile ilgili, bir?ok ?d?l alan alt? tane kitab? var. ?zellikle Akdeniz yemekleri ?zerine ?al??mas?n?n nedenini ise ??yle a??kl?yor: "Benim ailem S?rbistan'dan geliyor. Y?l?n alt? ay? Patlıcan yerdik. H?l? mutfakta k?zlenen Patlıcanlar?n kokusunu duyar?m. O y?zden Patlıcan nereye ben oraya gidiyorum."
"1980'lerde mikserle birlikte p?reyle dolu bir d?nya ortaya ??kt?"
Son y?llarda y?kselen trend yemek. Eskiden moda denince akla k?yafetler gelirdi, ?imdi yiyecekler geliyor...
Bu t?m d?nyada b?yle. Tabii ki yemekle bu derece ilgilenenler bir ?lkenin t?m halk? olmuyor. Belli bir grup bu insanlar. Bu insanlar yok olmaya y?z tutan malzemeleri ve ?reticilerini hayatta tutuyorlar.
Bir yandan da hava atma meselesi oldu. Art?k arabam?z yerine Erzincan'dan getirdi?imiz balla, Ayval?k'tan gelen zeytinya??m?zla hava at?yoruz. En g?zel su?iyi yapan yeri bilmekle ?v?n?yoruz.
Bu ?ok yeni bir ?ey de?il d?nyada. 1960'larda vejetaryen yemekleri yay?ld? d?nyada. Bir yanda da s?kse yapmak isteyenler, snoplar en de?i?ik, karma??k Frans?z yemeklerini yap?yorlard?. 1970'lerde daha hafif yemeklerin pe?inden ko?tular, vejetaryenlere yakla?t?lar. 1980'lerde mikserle birlikte p?reyle dolu bir d?nya ortaya ??kt?. 1990'larda ve 2000'lerde bu insanlar Banglade?'le, Tayland'la, Anadolu'yla ilgilenmeye ba?lad?lar.
Bir de f?zyon mutfa?? denen kar???mlardan anlamak da i?e yar?yor galiba ?u g?nlerde...
?rne?in Ferran Adria... ?ok b?y?k bir ?eftir. Onun yapt??? ?orbay? kadehten i?ersiniz. Kadehteki ?orba s?cak ba?lar ama en alttaki katman so?uktur. ??te ?imdi snoplar bu deneysel yemeklerin pe?indeler. Ama iyi bir balzamik sirkeyi, ekme?i hi?bir ?eye de?i?meyenler de var. Bir yeme?i, ?zerine sadece nane ve biber ekmek ?ok lezzetli yaparken bu yeni ?efler neredeyse her ?eyi koyuyorlar. Ben etimin ?zerinde karamel istemiyorum.
Ama bir ?ef de yeni yemekler yaratmak, ?e?itli kombinasyonlar denemek isteyecektir, de?il mi?
Ben k??emde yerimi iki ?efle payla??yorum. Bunlardan biri mesela Tayland mutfa??n? Frans?z mutfa?? ile birle?tiriyor. Ama 25 y?ld?r yemek yap?yor ve t?m bunlar? bilin?li, ak?ll?ca yap?yor. ?te tarafta 22 ya??nda bir ?ef bir yeme?i al?yor i?ine biraz k?pekbal??? ekliyor ve bu global bir yemek diyor. Sadece tan?nmak istiyor. Neresi global? Bir tarihi, bir hikayesi yok ki. Her yeme?in bir ge?mi?i vard?r. Zaten ben de i?in as?l olarak bu k?sm?yla ilgileniyorum, tarif k?sm?yla de?il.
O zaman siz ?eflerden daha ?ok o yemeklerin yap?ld??? b?lgelerdeki insanlarla ?al???yorsunuz...
Evet, as?l olarak kad?nlarla muhatap oluyorum. Mesela Urfa'ya gidiyorum, evlerine konuk oluyorum, onlarla birlikte yerlerde yat?p uyuyorum. Hem tarif al?yorum hem de o yemeklerin ve yapanlar?n ?yk?lerini.
Ama Musa Da?deviren bir erkek...
Evet ama bana g?re kad?n yemekleri yap?yor. ??nk? Musa'n?n yapt??? yemekler lokantalarda yiyebilece?iniz t?rden yemekler de?il. Ancak evlerde ??kabilir.
D??ar?dan T?rk mutfa?? nas?l g?r?n?yor?
?ok az biliniyor mutfa??n?z.
Sadece d?ner ve ?i? kebap m? biliniyor oralarda?
Ba?ka birka? ?ey daha biliniyor. Mesela baklava. Bizim size yapt???m?za bak?n. KFC, McDonald's... Hepsi burada... Siz de ayn? ?eyi yapabilirsiniz.
Ama bu mutfa?? ta??mak demek de?il ki... Ticaret. Zaten ?o?u ki?i Amerikan mutfa?? yok diye biliyor.
Bu do?ru de?il, Amerikan mutfa?? diye bir ?ey var. Kaliforniya mutfa??m?z var. G?neyde 400 y?ll?k bir mutfak var. Orada lahana, paz?, b?r?lce, bamya yap?l?yor, bolca domuz eti kullan?l?yor. Bir de d?nmemek ?zere gitsin dedi?imiz markalar?m?z var. McDonald's, Burger King gibi. Hayat?mda bir kere McDonald's'ta yemedim.
O zaman sizin yapt???n?z? yap?yoruz. D?ner b?feleri ile ??k?yoruz ama dolmay?, i?li köfteyi kenara at?yoruz.
Asl?nda evet.
Yemek d???nda burada en ?ok ne ho?unuza gidiyor?
?zellikle do?uya do?ru gittik?e insanlar inan?lmaz s?cak ve tatl? oluyorlar.
Yemek i?in ayn? soruyu sorarsak...
Benim T?rkiye'de en ?ok ho?uma giden ?ey ?e?itlilik. ?ok zengin bir mutfa??n?z var.
Tijen ?naltong, "Bir Sevgi G?n? Hikayesi", Radikal Cumartesi, 14 ?ubat 2004
Sevginin kutsand??? bir g?nde, size sevgisini, a?k?n? sadece insanlara de?il, i?ine de yans?tm?? birinin hik?yesini anlatmak istiyorum. D?rt bir yandan kirletildi?imiz, kand?r?ld???m?z, ge?mi?teki tatlar? mumla arad???m?z bir d?nemde etin en iyisini, sebzenin en tazesini, tatl?n?n en g?zelini, otlar?n en yabanisini, hem de eski usul bak?r tabaklarda sunan bir lezzet ustas?n?n hik?yesini.
G?venerek, zevk alarak, i?tahla yedi?iniz yemeklerin ?zerine ge?mi?te sofralar?m?zdan eksik etmedi?imiz ?erbetler sunan, en k?sa zamanda ko?up farkl? lezzetler tatmak i?in yan?p tutu?tu?unuz, e?inize dostunuza sal?k verip misafiriniz geldi?inde mutlaka ziyaret etti?iniz, uzaklarda da otursan?z yolda ge?en zamana ald?rmadan hep yeniden geldi?iniz ?iya Sofras? ve ?iya Kebap Salonlar?'n?n yarat?c?s?, ba? ustas? Musa Da?deviren'den bahsediyorum size.
Sevgisini, a?k?n?, ya?am?n? adad??? lezzet d?nyas? onun neredeyse t?m zaman?n? al?yor. O ise zaman?n k?y?s?ndan k??esinden a??r?p yeni malzemelerin, tatlar?n pe?inden ko?uyor, belki de art?k memleketin hi?bir k??esinde yap?lmayan yemeklerin tariflerini buluyor, yurdun d?rt bir yan?ndan malzeme getirtiyor, kendi de tuzunu biberini ekleyip yeni ba?tan yarat?yor re?eteleri.
Musa Usta, y?llard?r hamur yo?uruyor, kebap yap?yor, y?resel yemekler sunuyor. Belki art?k ustalar? ?stleniyor restorandaki i?leri, ama o yeni lezzetler yaratmaya, yeni projeler ?retmeye devam ediyor. ?iya'da bug?ne kadar binlerce insan?n y?z?n? g?ld?ren Musa Bey, Kas?m ay?nda T?rkiye'yi d?nyan?n en ?nemli yemek okullar?ndan biri olan Culinary Institute of America'da d?zenlenen Akdeniz Mutfa?? temal?, VI. Uluslararas? D?nya Lezzetleri Konferans? ve Festivali'nde temsil etti. T?rk mutfa??n?n ?o?u unutulmu? yemekleriyle. Etkinlikte 500'?n ?zerinde ?ef, i?letmeci, yazar, ?retici, y?netici, mutfak k?lt?r? uzman? ve bas?n mensubu vard?. ?? g?n s?ren bu etkinlik boyunca belki onun da ??renece?i bir ?eyler olacakt?, ancak ba??n? yo?urdu?u hamurlardan, haz?rlad??? soslardan, sundu?u kebaplardan kald?ramad??? i?in yorgun, ama mutlu d?nd? memlekete.
Musa Bey'e ge?ti?imiz y?l Stanford'da 'y?l?n en ba?ar?l? ?efi' ?d?l?n? alan Burak Epir ve e?i Zeynep Han?m yard?m etti. Neler mi yapt?lar? Yaz ve k?? lahmacunu, melengi?li ekmek, sak?zl? ekmek, mahlepli patates ekme?i, acuka, ?emen, kebaplar, zahter salatas?, kavut, Patlıcan tatl?s?, ceviz tatl?s?... (Listedeki t?m yiyecekler ve festival bilgileri i?in www.ciya.com.tr yi ziyaret edebilirsiniz. ?iya Sofras?'nda sunulan yemeklerle ilgili olarak da ?ok sayg? duydu?um ara?t?rmac? M. Sabri Koz'un derledi?i Yemek Kitab? (Kitabevi) sizi Aydınlatacakt?r. Derlemenin geni?letilmi? yeni bask?s? ge?ti?imiz haftalarda piyasaya ??kt?.)
B?t?n bu emeklerin arma?an? ise Musa Bey'in yemek sunumlar?na gelen kalabal?klar ve tad?m masas?n?n ?n?nde olu?an kuyruklard?. Evet, belki yorgun d?nd? memlekete, belki g?nlerce restoranlar?n?n ba??nda bulunamad?, ama d?n???nde a?k?n?n ?d?l? vard? kalbinde. ?d?ller gelmeye devam edecek. Kaliforniya'da onunla tan??an, yiyeceklerini tadan, hakk?ndaki ?vg?leri okuyan pek ?ok insan T?rkiye'ye belki de sadece onun yemeklerini yemek i?in gelecek ve bu yemeklerin ?yk?lerini d?nyan?n d?rt bir yan?na da??tacak.
Sevgi g?n?nde sizlerle insanl???n evrensel dili olan tadlar?n ustas? Musa Da?deviren'in hik?yesini payla?t?m. ??nk? a?k ve sevgi insan?n se?ti?i i?e, dahas? evrene sunuldu?unda verimi de, hazz? da daha b?y?k olacakt?r. Ya?ama, ?retme ve payla?ma a?k?n?z? hi? kaybetmemeniz dile?iyle.
Carolyn Tillie, "A World of Flavors - Perspectives on the Mediterranean, in California", The Daily Gullet, 18 Aral?k 2003
I HAVE never been to theQMediterranean, but during the weekend of November 8th, I visited Morocco, Tunisia, Italy, Greece, Spain, Turkey, Lebanon, and Provence, all at the Culinary Institute of America's Greystone campus, in Napa, California. The occasion was the Sixth Annual World of Flavors Conference. From Thursday evening through Saturday evening dozens of leading chefs, cookbook authors, and other experts from all over the world gathered to share their insider perspectives on Mediterranean cuisine. In my past I have attended literary and religious conferences, but this was my first culinary conference and I was not prepared for the bounty offered to me.
Thursday
The event started Thursday evening, November 6, in the third-floor conference hall, across a small walkway from the teaching kitchens. Greg Drescher, Director of Education and International Studies for the CIA stated the point of the conference, namely that claims of the superiority of a particular culture no longer hold water as so many cultures have much to offer the world at large. Inasmuch, the conference was a way to make world cuisine more accessible to the industry. He then introduced the keynote speakers: Nancy Harmon Jenkins, Lidia Matticchio Bastianich, and Paula Wolfert. These three acted as the mythical Three Graces for the event, and, as the daughters of Zeus did, they presided over the banquets, dances, and all other pleasurable social events of the weekend, each weaving in their own individual brand of charm, grace, and knowledge.
Nancy Harmon Jenkins, noted author from Bon Appetit, showcased slides of Sicily along with her opening remarks, depicting a city in the middle of the Mediterranean. She referred to the region as a deep, replenishing well that can be returned to over and over. To the attending chefs in the audience, she offered: "Take the [communal] blessings of the Mediterranean and learn its benefits." And she also warned against topping "your foie gras with pomegranate-raspberry-fennel foam!"
Lidia Bastianich, known television personality, author, and restaurant owner, also showed slides, but of Franchi seed packets. This was her way of emphasizing that vegetables are an under-utilized product. Italian menus in America are different than they are in Italy, and it is always a challenge to transport the culinary traditions. A major struggle for American chefs, in Ms. Bastianich's opinion, is first and foremost the lack of quality ingredients and secondly the vegetable's inferior place on American tables, where it typically takes a backseat to meat. She emphasized that vegetables are the biggest source of growth within culinary markets.
Paula Wolfert, author and one of America's foremost experts on Mediterranean cuisine, was the last to speak and her slides were of various forms of clay pots and the dishes made within, reminding us that clay pot cooking is the best way to get in touch with our roots -- before clay pots, she noted, man simply put his meat directly into the fire. Learning that she couldn't read her written speech, she improvised, making for a more passionate, heart-felt introduction to the weekend.
Along with their opening slides and speeches, all three keynote speakers gave food preparation demonstrations, which made for a rather lengthy introduction on the whole, as dinner was waiting for us and the demonstrations only enhanced our hunger. I had to get used to it -- every lecture and speech was accompanied by a guest chef and demonstration. And this made for a lot of eating.
The second floor was home to the Barrel Room/Marketplace and to the bounty of food that awaited us after the opening speeches. The room was stunningly decorated with draped cloth and enclaves reminiscent of the markets of Marrakesh. I was sorely unprepared for the magnitude of this bounty: thirty sponsors serving up more than a hundred dishes, and five-hundred attendees struggling to move about. There was no way to try everything and not realizing how much food there really was, I started eating right from the front door when handed a plate of smoked pancetta-wrapped rabbit loin with braised and sauteed artichokes, prepared by Chef Paul Bartolotta of Bartolotta's Restaurants in Wisconsin.
Chef Massimo Bottura, chef/owner of La Francescana in Italy, served a Parmigiano Reggiano creme brulee with a dash of balsamico that was pure heaven. Of the sponsors' products, highlights included potato galette with caviar from the United States Potato Board, prepared by Chef Steven Jilleba, a corporate chef representing UBS Food Solutions; and curried date and chicken tartlette with date and tahini coulis, from the California Date Administrative Committee prepared by Chefs Anthony Tuttle of Renaissance Esmeralda Resort & Spa and William Withrow of Cuistot. One of the best dishes of the Friday evening reception was prepared by Chef Enrique Dacosta Vadillo of El Poblet restaurant in Spain -- a Cubalibre of foie gras with crushed lemon ice and wild arugula (with the rum and coke flavor of the Spanish cocktail, Cubalibre, served as a glaze atop the creamy foie). Wines were flowing, compliments of Darioush Wines, Allied Domecq, Nestor Imports, and Wines From Spain. And it was just the beginning…
Friday
The general sessions began, many held simultaneously at various campus locations so it is impossible to comment and discuss them all. But I was fortunate to attend, among a few other great lectures, Tasting Mediterranean Cheese: A Master Class held by Max McCalman, the Dean of Curriculum for the Artisinal Cheese Center in New York. Although I was slightly disappointed that he limited his selections to the classically-accepted countries of cheese production -- hoping, perhaps, to taste little-known cheeses from Turkey like Cerkez, Civil (Tel), and Van Otlu -- McCalman, with his dry, wry wit, led 50 of us through a delightful tasting of seven different cheeses from France (Tetoun, Le Moulis Brebis, and Roquefort Carles), Spain (Beyos and Monte Enebro) and Italy (Robiola due Latti and Pecorino Foglie Noce).
This day's lunch was prepared and offered within the expansive area of the teaching kitchens, a change from the previous evenings' Marketplace. Buffets were set up at various stations with larger offerings set in the center of the room. I was more methodical this time, going through the presented menu, trying, in vain, to taste every dish. Italy offered five dishes including Chef Andrea Canton's smoked suckling pig with brovado, fresh horseradish, and cumin breads; Chef Odette Fada's roasted rabbit with garlic and pecorino sauce; and Chef Craig Stoll's wild nettle tagliatelle with nettle sauce and pinenuts. All of the attending chefs continued to work their magic, but the longest lines were found at Gerald Hirogoyen's Spanish presentation of roasted lamb with garlic and thyme. It was definitely busy and hard to get around, but quite fun to see the production of the dishes we were eating, many being prepared and plated as we waited in lines.
After lunch, the next round of lectures started with Najmieh Batmanglij's Ancient Persia and the Silk Road: Connecting the Mediterranean World with the Middle East and Asia, held in a darkened room, in which many participants, suffering the contentment of lunch, were nodding off. Such a pity as she brought up a number of interesting points regarding the history of Persian cuisine and its similarity with many Asian cuisines -- they share a philosophy of food being either hot or cold in energy, not temperature, suggesting that in these ancient cultures food and spirit are closely tied together. To emphasize the historical importance of Persian food she explained that, based on 10th Century cookbooks, Western archeological and linguistic scholars agree that pasta originated in Iran, not in Italy or China. She recounted the humble pomegranate's status in some cultures as a major manifestation of God. The end of her session involved teaching people how to open the pomegranate, and many attendees left this session quite be-speckled with its red juice.
The next session I attended proved to be the most inspirational of the entire weekend: Secrets of Istanbul's Leading Kitchens: A Pantry and Sauce Tasting by speaker Engin Akin, cookbook author and Turkish radio personality, and guest chef/demonstrator Musa Dagdeviren of Istanbul's Ciya restaurant. (Musa had an assistant chef and translator whose name I did not catch.) What was remarkable from the start was that while the cheese session was held in a large, tiered kitchen that holds more than fifty people, this session was tucked into an enclave next to the Institute's barrista, and it held barely a dozen of us. We were impressed from the start. After Engin elaborated on Kayut, a toasted version of Kamut flour, used extensively in both savory and sweet dishes, Musa began clarifying a large amount of butter and sauteing the Kayut, as though he were making a roux. Then he added a touch of salt and served this simple dish with the explanation that it was a traditional breakfast course. Then Musa took the same butter-sauteed Kayut and added a bit of honey -- the small crowd was amazed that the change of a single ingredient could produce such a remarkably different dish.
Over the hour, course after course was prepared on a hot plate and served: topik, an Armenian dish served ten days before and after Christmas consisted of boiled potatoes, boiled and peeled chickpeas, both of which are put through a meat grinder. This potato and chickpea paste is rolled out like dough and filled with sauteed onion, pinenuts, currants, allspice, and tahini. It was finished with cinnamon, olive oil, and lemon juice. All of us crowded as closely as we could to watch the chef prepare karga beyni, literally "crow's brain," a sweet plate of yogurt, pekmez (grape molasses), tahini, butter, golden raisins, coarsely chopped walnuts, cinnamon, and allspice. I think all attending had educated palates but this was new and exciting as it was peasant food, not often found in restaurants.
Back in the main lecture hall Flavors of Morocco: From the Markets of Fez and Marrakesh to the Royal Cooking of Rabat was the next large general session, moderated by Paula Wolfert with guest chefs and demonstrators Boujemaa Mars (Executive Chef, La Mamounia, Marrakech, Morocco), Rafih Benjelloun (Executive Chef, Imperial Fez Restaurant, Atlanta, Georgia), and Mourad Lahlou (Chef/Owner, Aziza Restaurant, San Francisco, California). Wolfert offered a delightful introduction, going over her thirty years of eating, writing about, and communing with Mediterranean cuisine. She showed slides of markets, where haggling was a necessity, and explained the philosophy of Darwinian Gastronomy, pointing out that certain ingredients that protect you, among them oregano, garlic, and peppers, are found extensively in Mediterranean cuisine. Benjelloun was the perfect sidekick to Wolfert, complimenting her all weekend whether she was present or not ("I love Pao-La!"). I was impressed by the Institute's technology, showcased when Wolfert shooed the three chefs away and they reappeared minutes later on the screen behind her. They were in the kitchen, bigger than life to us. In real time, Paula was talking to Benjelloun and commenting on what she was seeing in the kitchen. It was very, very cool.
Benjelloun acted as translator for Mars, who apparently spoke little or no English. A tagine of lamb shank was prepared, and there were some professional disagreements that thankfully did not get past the translations -- as Mars was demonstrating how to preserve lemons and Benjelloun offered the belief that oil should never be used in the process. Benjelloun thought it fortuitous that Mars could not understand him when he complained to us. Benjelloun is full of life and love and his passion for the food is rather infectious. He and Wolfert had a long discussion on the benefits of using a couscousierre to steam couscous, saying it should only ever be hand-rolled.
Mourad Lahlou performed next and did not need a translator. His dish was shrimp, lobster, crab, and Alaskan halibut, sauteed in Moroccan spices, triangle-wrapped in phyllo, and artfully placed on a mound of couscous salad with saffron sauce and chive essence. His cutting-edge California-style cuisine utilizing Moroccan ingredients impressed even Wolfert. Hungry from these three impressive demonstrations, I was glad when dinner was announced, downstairs…
Having seen what was presented the night before, I decided to be more methodical about my approach this evening. A menu was handed us when we entered the Barrel Room and I started perusing the list, looking first for those items that I knew I wanted to taste. Remembering the decadent foie gras from the previous evening, I quickly found who was serving foie gras and headed straight there. Chef Jose Ramon Andres, chef/partner of restaurant Jaleo in Washington D.C. was twisting cubes of foie gras within a cage of cotton candy. Chef Andres flung toasted pinenuts at the delicately enrobed morsel before handing it off to anxious guests. . The California Raisin Marketing Board offered duck with golden raisins, pears, and chestnuts served atop orzo with saffron onions and asiago, prepared by chefs Todd Downs and Ryan Favini, both with the Raisin Board. I headed for a small bistro table and asked a nice-looking lady if she would mind sharing her seat. I offered her a taste of my duck as she offered me a taste of her salmon terrine with arugula on roasted pepper compote, prepared by Chef Bart Goldbert, Executive Chef with the Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute. This nice woman was none other than Marie Simmons, noted Bon Appetit columnist and James Beard Award winner. We quickly established a game plan -- she would take one side of the room, I the other -- and we would meet back and share our booty.
I told Marie of the exciting presentation I attended that afternoon by Musa Dagdeverin and recommended a taste from him. Unlike most of the other booths, where easy access assured a taste of whatever was desired, Musa's table had a long line waiting for his alaca corba (wheat soup) and kapama (a lamb dish with onion and lettuce) -- word had gotten out and he became the beau of the ball. Benjelloun was also a hit, not only for his couscous tyafa with medjool dates, roasted quail, and shredded carrot salad, but because he had one of the few tables of wares for sale. Not only did we share lovely food, but lovely company as well -- during part of our wanderings, Marie invited over a friend, Beverly Stephen of Food Arts. The evening drew to a close, with the knowledge that we would all be back the next morning to start over again…
Saturday
A lovely breakfast buffet came to awaken our senses before the morning session, a forum on The Unknown Mediterranean Table: Of Politics, War, Marketing, and the Future, moderated by world-renowned journalist and associate editor of the New York Times R.W. Apple. Panelists included Jose Ramon Andres, Lidia Bastianich, Rafih Benjoulloun, Terrance Brennan (chef/owner of the Artisanal Cheese Center in New York), Diane Kochilas (author of such books as The Glorious Foods of Greece), Nancy Harmon Jenkins, Kamal Mouzawak (travel and food writer for Saveur Magazine and Lebanese television host), and Ana Sortun (Chef/Owner of Oleana in Cambridge, Massachusetts). In opening, "Johnny" Apple was larger than life and gregarious. This was undoubtedly the liveliest discussion of the weekend as it was one of the first times politics became the focus. And it seemed politics could not be discussed without discussing hunger. Mouzawak gave an introductory statement that brought tears to many eyes -- he lives in Lebanon, which has ceased to exist several times but whose culture has never died. He explained to us that during war food goes back to basics as there is no electricity or water. Water and bread are the most precious commodities. As Kamal handed the microphone over to Kochilas, we could see how touched she was by his comments. A recurring theme that developed within the discussion was the sadness at waste within American culture. The debate went from the imperialism of American culture to how Americans in general view the Mediterranean. Those attending from foreign countries hold the belief that Americans in general are resistant to unknown cultures but are passionate about Italian, Mexican, and French foods. The discussion culminated with a consensus to end political strife through the sharing of food with enemies. Lidia alluded to an organization she is starting called Recipes for Peace but sadly did not elaborate on its plan.
Immediately after this lively discussion, we found yet more food prepared and waiting for us in the back of the lecture hall, this time sponsored by the Pear Bureau of the Northwest: large platters of prosciutto-wrapped poached pears on skewers, pear galettes, and a delicate pear and Champagne gelee, in case we were hungry.
Opening for the very first time this day was the Rudd Center for Professional Wine Studies, a multi-million dollar facility built for wine education. I walked in, hoping to find room to attend Priorato: The Spanish Wine World's Bright New Star offered by Karen MacNeil, chair of the CIA's wine programs. It was a beautiful room, and although I waited futilely for an empty seat. I heard later it was an amazing presentation.
Stumbling around in a daze with the smell of spices filling my nostrils, I headed for the Teaching Kitchens where a number of Demonstration Workshop Series were being held simultaneously. I managed to slip into Paul Bartollota and Odette Fada’s (Executive Chef, Restaurant San Domenico, New York) offering. Their session, In Praise of Chickpeas, Broccoli Rabe, Fennel, and More: The Italian Vegetable Kitchen was exciting as we were in a working kitchen with real equipment. Iron Chef has nothing on these two -- during this session alone, in less than 50 minutes, these two chefs prepared five dishes with enough substance to feed the twenty or thirty of us standing around. We tasted scafata, baby Mediterranean octopus with cicerchie, pasta and green cauliflower soup federica, chickpea soup with ditalini pasta, and sauteed langoustinos with chickpea sauce. At the same time, five other kitchen sessions went on with different chefs preparing just as many courses for their participants!
And just when you think you can't eat any more: lunchtime. Yep, another foray into the Barrel Room to strap on the feed bag. I, along with the others, was becoming very selective. Highlights included the American Lamb Board's offering of lamb shoulder stew with Mission figs served on polenta prepared by Chef Melissa Perello of Charles of Nob Hill, San Francisco; shrimp with traxana and citrus sauce by Chef Christofors Peskias from Balthazar restaurant in Athens, Greece; and the now-deified Musa Dagdeviren's dried eggplant stew (still a line to get his food!). Sponsor UBF Food, who sells and markets Ben and Jerry's Ice Cream, was scooping up vanilla ice cream with "assorted toppings." But oh, what toppings! Orange segments macerated in orange water, dried figs sauteed in port wine, and toasted orange peel and sesame seeds. All these and the special ingredient that tied them all together: a dash of balsamico. Perfection.
After our final lunch, I attended one of the larger presentations, Tunisia and Morocco: tasting North African Flavor Dynamics, moderated by Paula Wolfert with chef demonstrators Haouari Abderrazak, a chef from Tunisia, Boujemaa Mars, and Rafih Benjelloun. Nearing the end of the day, sessions were running late as all three chefs had prepared demonstrations and there was little time to give them. Both Wolfert and Benjelloun had slides of different markets, bakeries, and couscous dishes. Wolfert told a lovely story of how, throughout her years of traveling and learning about Mediterranean cuisine, she almost always cooked with women. When language was a barrier, Wolfert explained, she would kiss the cheeks of these women and then touch her heart in thanks. We were lucky to witness this touching ritual between Wolfert and and a lovely female chef from Morocco, Radja. Radja demonstrated the art of preparing a dish in a tagine, with Benjelloun and Wolfert kibitzing. Most fascinating was Radja's knife technique -- she sliced everything in her hand, not on a chopping block. Sadly, as Haouari tried to start preparation of well-known cookie based on finely-ground chickpeas, it was time for the conferences' closing statements.
The closing remarks of the conference began with an introduction by Christopher Hirsheimer, former editor at Saveur. She reintroduced the keynote speakers and recapped the weekend's adventures. Nancy Harmon Jenkins stressed to all in attendance that no matter how experienced, everyone came away from the weekend with something new. Bastianich celebrated the bonds that food facilitates and reminded all that food is an invaluable, potent tool to better ourselves and the world. Wolfert focused on the part women play, poignantly unheralded in many Middle Eastern countries that were represented this weekend. Greg Drescher finalized the event by inviting up on the stage all the CIA workers, chefs, and behind-the-scenes toilers who made the event possible.
My mind reeled from the totality of the offerings; there were so many bits of new information, opinions, and tastes to consume. (How to sort out so many pages of notes?) In the way of booty, the CIA offered a huge canvas bag with a six-inch binder of biographies, sponsor information, and some recipes. Each sponsor also threw in their gift, from the useful Kikkoman International whisk to the National Pork Board’s ludicrous stars-and-stripes pig pin. Though most presenters attempted to hand out recipes, in a months' time, I will receive a CDRom of the recipes of all the dishes prepared during the weekend. Recipes are also available through the CIA website
As I examine the list of attendees, there are company names of interest (providing anonymity to the actual attendees): the executive chef of Quiznos; the test kitchen manager for Williams Sonoma; the product developer for Fresh Choice restaurants; and more. What may prove quite interesting about the event is when/if we, the general dining public, begin to see anything remotely different in these companies' offerings. Will we see preserved lemons on sandwiches at Quiznos? I guess I don't want to go there. I do, however, want to attend next year's conference, slated to cover the cuisines of Asia: Japan, China, Korea, India, and Taiwan…
Dalida ?ZATAY, "Misafir yemekleri", Ak?am Gazetesi, 20 Temmuz 2003
Tad?n? bilmedi?imiz belki ad?n? bile duymad???m?z asl?nda topraklar?m?z?n lezzetleri olan yemekler her g?n ?iya Sofras?'nda asl?na uygun olarak yap?l?yor.
Ad?n? hep duydu?um, s?rekli ?n?nden ge?ti?im ama bir t?rl? kap?s?ndan girip yemeklerini tadamad???m ?iya'day?m. Mekan?n kurucusu Musa Da?deviren, "?nce tatman?z gerek" derken ben ?nce onu dinliyorum. Ard?ndan da Museviler'in Patlıcanl? köftesini, Ermeniler'in dalak dolmas?n? ve Ege'nin b?r?lcesini tad?yorum. Ger?ekten anlat?ld??? kadar var.
?iya, Lazca'da kiraz a?ac?n?n yanarken ??kard??? k?v?lc?m, K?rt?e'de da?-yayla, G?rc? diline horon teperken ayaklar?n ??kartt??? ses, Rumca'da da ocak anlam?na geliyor. Kad?k?y ?ar??s?nda bulunan ?iya Sofras?, bu ?zel co?rafyan?n bug?n pek ?o?u unutulmu? zengin yemek k?lt?r?n? devam ettiriyor. ?lk olarak 1986'da kebap ?e?itlerinin yer ald??? d?kkan? a?an Musa Da?deviren, 1998'de de Anadolu Sofras?'n? hizmete sokuyor. M?n?, G?ney Do?u ve Do?u Akdeniz yemeklerinden olu?mu?. Ayr?ca "misafir yemekleri" diye adland?r?lan Anadolu'da ya?ayan Ermeni, Rum, K?rt ve Yahudiler'in kendilerine has yemekleri de bulunuyor. Esas mesle?i lokantac?l?k olan Gaziantepli Da?deviren, bug?n ?o?u bilinmeyen hatta kendi y?relerinde bile yap?lmayan yemekleri ara?t?rmalar sonucu ??rendiklerini anlat?yor: "Ara?t?rmalar?m?zda eski kitaplar ve b?lge insanlar?ndan yararland?k. Yemekleri ?nce bilene yapt?r?yor ve yap?m a?amas?nda da bulunuyoruz. Daha sonra biz yap?p, o ki?iye tatt?r?yoruz. Farkl? malzeme koyarken de izin al?yoruz."
?iya'daki yemek listesi mevsimine g?re de?i?iyor. Bazen de geleneklere uyuluyor. Mesela Ermeniler'in y?lba??nda yapt?klar? topik y?lba??nda, a?ure de a?ure ay?nda yap?l?yor. Da?deviren, "Gelenekleri bozmak istemiyoruz ve o heyecan? birlikte payla??yoruz" diyor. Daha ?nce y?re mutfaklar? yapan mekanlar?n olmad???n? anlatan Musa Da?deviren, "Buran?n a??lmas? pek ?ok ki?iye ilham oldu. Ama maalesef ara?t?rmadan yap?ld??? i?in yanl??l?klar var. Ayr?ca buraya ne araklar?m diye gelenler de var" diyor.
S?n?rlar? a?t?
?iya, ?stanbul'u tan?tan pek ?ok kitapta yer al?yor. Japonya'da ?stanbul'u anlatan bir kitapta gidilmesi gereken yerler aras?nda ?iya g?sterilmi?. Orta Do?u yemekleri konusunda uzman ?ngiliz Claude Roder, ?stanbul'u tan?tt??? kitab?nda ?iya'dan bahsetmi?. Sadece farkl? yemeklerle karn?n?z? doyuracak bir yer olmayan ?iya'da baharat, tur?u, ekmek, peynir, zeytin, tah?l, tarhana, ot ?e?itleri, sabun gibi do?al ?r?nler de sat?l?yor. Bunca zahmetle haz?rlanan yemekleri yemenin bedeliyle ilgili Da?deviren, "Fiyatlar?m?z d???k ??nk? ?ar?? i?indeyiz" diyor. Etli yemekler be? milyon, etsizler ?? bu?uk milyon, salatan?n kilosu 16 milyon, tatl?lar da iki iki bu?uk milyon aras?nda de?i?iyor.
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Rum yemekleri
Asma yaprağında sardalya, iskorpit Çorbası, kalamar dolmas?, Kritikos peksimodos
Ermeni yemekleri
Zeytinya?l? lahana dolmas?, uskumru dolmas?, dalak dolmas?, papaz yahnisi
Yahudi yemekleri
Espinaka kon arros - pirinçli ?spanak, semda - irmik tatl?s?, borekos de berencena - Patlıcanl? b?rek
K?rt yemekleri
Tr?ik - t?rl?, l?klikli köfte - bulgurla yap?lan bir yemek, kibe - i?kembe Çorbası, ??ll?k - hamur tatl?s?
Azeri yemekleri
Piti, bozba?, d??bere, tike kebab?, l?le kebab?, incir murabbas?, nar ?erbeti, sumak ?erbeti
Arap ve S?ryani yemekleri
Dahudiyat - ek?ili köfte, p?rt?ke - ?spanakl? yemek, etli ekmek, fettu?, belluriye, ??h?lmah?i
Derya SAZAK, "Tak koluna sepeti", Milliyet, 11 May?s 2003
Tak koluna sepeti
Anneler G?n? i?in kitap se?imini bu y?l Ay?e yapt?:
'Tak Koluna Sepeti.'
Bodrum pazar?ndan tatlar, renkler, portreler.
Tijen ?naltong, Boston ve Ankara'da ya?ad?ktan sonra Bodrum'u ke?fetmi? bir kent yorgunu, arkada?lar?n?n k?pek ve kedilerine bakmak ?zere bir mevsimli?ine uzand??? Akdeniz'de pazar yerlerini dola??p 'ota ??k?nca' ortaya 'Picasso'nun Mutfa??'n? aratmayacak bir kitap ??k?yor.
Sabah sekizde uyan?nca 'ge? kal?yorum' diye yataktan f?rlayan bir insan?n i?i de?il de, pazarda kar??la?aca?? renk c?mb???n? d???nmesi tarifsiz bir mutluluk olmal?.
Tijen Han?m, Bodrum g?ncesinde salt pazaryeri turlar?na yer vermiyor, zeytinlikler alt?nda salep orkideleri, da? laleleri, gelincikler aras?nda yapt??? gezintileri anlat?yor. Onun yolda?lar? Naime teyzeler, Elif analar, Maynur'lar.
Kitap kapa??n? da Bodrumlu H?r? s?sl?yor.
Ke?ik?rmeni, kazaya??, kuzukula??, tilki?enler, ac?otlar.
Ve otlu yemekler...
Patatesli tilki?en, terbiyeli kenker, yumurtal? tilki?en kavurmas?, papatya tent?r?, sebzeli zerde?all? soya yeme?i, kabak?i?e?i dolmas?, nohutlu hindiba kavurma, pirinçli b?r?lce filizi.
Ot seanslar? ve yemek tarifi aralar?na serpi?tirilmi? gezinti notlar? so?uk bir k???n ard?ndan Dat?a d??leri g?r?p, G?kova'da Azmakba??'n?n serin sular?n? d??leyenler i?in tam bir bahar terapisi:
'Hafiften bir ??le yeme?i hali. Ku?lardan ?nce minik su kaplumba?alar?n? g?r?yoruz. Sanki aile. Sonra flamingolar. Kafalar? suda, yiyecek ararken bir yandan da boyunlar?n? dans?z k?vrakl???yla bir ileri bir geri hareket ettiriyorlar.'
?iya Sofras?
Dat?a'y?, Bodrum'u, Finike'yi d??leyip de gidemeyen dostlar?m?za Tijen ?naltong'un 'Tak Koluna Kitab?'n? ?neriyoruz.
?stanbul'da kalanlar depresyona girmesin!
?iya Sofras?, unutulmu? yemeklerin, kaybolmu? tatlar?n, eski k?lt?rlerin g?n?m?ze ta??nm?? ?rneklerini sunuyor, Kad?k?y Bal?k??lar ?ar??s?'nda. Musa ve Zeynep Da?deviren'in i?letti?i '?iya Sofras?'nda, 'otlu yemekler resitali' var. Mutfak, Gaziantep ve Do?u Akdeniz, Hatay a??rl?kl?. Musa Bey de Tijen Han?m gibi 'pazar gezgini', ?stanbul'da ye?ilin ?lmedi?ini kan?tlarcas?na ot topluyor.
Taze sarm?saktan yap?lan ?iveydiz, mumbar dolmas?, frik Pilavı, te?bura, Arap mutfa??ndan fellafel ve muhammara, mualle, ke?kek, zahter salatas?, ja? kavurma. Antakya usul? kabak, ham ceviz de domates tatl?s?. ??ralar.
Kad?k?y ?ar??s?'nda m?tevaz? bir ortamda farkl? tatlar i?in ?iya Sofras? ?a??rt?c? bir ke?if.
Organik tar?ma, etten ?ok bal??a ve zeytinya?l? besinlere d?n?? konusunda Akdeniz ku?a?? ?lkesi olarak T?rkiye ?ok ?ansl?.
Tijen ?naltong, K?ba'da 20 bin ki?inin Havana ve ?evresinde organik kentsel tar?mla u?ra?arak kendi sebze ve meyve ihtiyac?n? kar??lad???n? yaz?yor.
?stanbul'da pazar yerlerinin zenginli?ini ?iya'da g?r?yorsunuz.
Bug?n Anneler G?n?, 'tak?n kolunuza sepeti', bahar? ya?ay?n.
Aylin G?ng?r, "?iya soka??", Vizon, Mart 2003, S. 149, s. 116
"[...] ?stanbul'da farkl? farkl? yerel mutfaklara d??k?n lezzet avc?lar?n?n ad?n? s?k s?k and??? mek?nlar?n ba??nda ?iya geliyor. [...] Musa Da?deviren, 1979 y?l?ndan beri Anadolu'ya ke?if ama?l? geziler yap?p k?lt?rler, tarih, mitoloji, kal?nt?lar ve ?zellikle de yemek k?lt?rleri hakk?nda bilgi toplad???n? anlat?yor. Ge?ti?imiz y?l yapt???, Ege'yi Akdeniz'i, Doğu anadolu'yu ve Suriye'yi kapsayan gezi s?ras?nda o b?lgelerin lokantalar?nda dahi art?k pi?irilmeyen ev yemeklerini ara?t?rd?klar?n? s?yl?yor.[...]"
Belgin Sunal, "Etnografik bir lokanta", The Gate, Ocak 2003, S. 33, s. 35
"[...] Evet, etnografya s?zc??? genellikle m?zeler i?in kullan?l?r. ?stanbul'un Kad?k?y semtinde ?yle bir lokanta var ki, yakla??k 1000 yemek tarifini kapsayan d?nemsel m?n?s?yle ve bu yemeklerin k?keniyle tam bir etnografik lokanta. Tek farkla; bu m?zede g?receklerinizi yiyebiliyorsunuz da. M?ze gezmekten hazzetmeyenler i?in ideal! ?iya, Do?u Akdeniz ve G?neydo?u yemekleri a??rl?kl? bir yer.
Bu lokantay? olu?turan ve geli?tiren ki?i Musa Da?deviren. Ailesi birka? ku?ak geriden f?r?nc?l?k gelene?inden geliyor. Mezopotomya b?lgesini be?ik olarak kabul ediyor ve yemek k?lt?r?n?n de kayna??n? buralardan ald???n? d???n?yor. 'Nuh Tufan? bu b?lge i?in anlat?l?yor, dedikodu de?il bunlar. ?erkez, K?rt, T?rk, Ermeni... B?t?n halklar bulu?mu? burada. Saray mutfa?? de?il bi. Osmanl?l?ktan T?rkl??? alg?l?yorsak bizim mutfa??m?z, Osmanl? sofras? de?il. E?er Osmanl?dan Anadolulu?u anl?yorsak, evet, Osmanl? ama saray mutfa?? de?il tabii. Bu, halk sofras?', diyor. Her otun bir zaman?, her sebzenin bir pi?irme usul? ve her tarifin k?kl? bir tarihi var.[...]"
Renan Y?ld?r?m, "Sokak", ?stanbullu, Aral?k 2002, S. 2, s. 447
"[..] Sa?l? sollu d?kk?nlar?n ?n?nde, kendi bah?elerinde ?rettikleri sebzeleri satan k?yl?leri ge?ip ?iya'ya geliyoruz. Arka sokaktaki ?at?s? g?r?nen Surp Takavor Ermeni Kilisesi'nden ?an sesleri geliyor. Lezzet tutkunu ve ara?t?rmac?; ayn? zamanda bir kitap kurdu olan Musa Da?deviren'in ?iya's?nda ?nceleri kebap ve pide yerdim. Buras? soka??n ge?it vermeyen bir yeri oldu ?imdilerde.[...]"
Emre Ak?z, "T?rk'?n Akl?", Sabah, 22.11.2002, s. 31
?stanbul'un, yeni olmas?na ra?men efsanevi lokantalar?ndan biri Kad?k?y ?ar??s?'ndaki ?iya Sofras?'d?r. Buradaki yemeklerin adlar?n? m?mk?n de?il ezberleyemezsiniz.[...]"
G?l Altan, "Mek?nlardan: ?iya", Radikal, 26 Ekim 2002, s. 17
"?iya Sofra'n?n sahibi Musa Da?deviren, y?llard?r folklorik ara?t?rmalar yap?yor ve bunun bir sonucu olarak da ?iya, yemek yemenin bir emek ve ara?t?rma ?r?n? oldu?unu hissettiriyor. A??rl?kl? olarak G?neydo?u ve Akdeniz mutfa??yla donat?lm?? olan ?iya'da Ege, Karadeniz, S?ryani, Ermeni ve Arap yemeklerinin en ilgin? tatlar? da konuk oluyor masalara. A??rl?kl? olarak geleneksel etli ve sulu yemekler haz?rlan?yor, malzemeler ise t?rkiye'nin her yerinden geliyor. soğan, malta eri?i, ayva, Vişne ve elma kebaplar? gibi y?zlerce ?e?it kebap yap?l?yor. Tam 65 ?e?it pide ve vejeteryenler i?inse etsiz yemekler ve kebaplar da bulunuyor. ?iya'da. Tabii alaca, ma? Çorbası ve tarhana gibi ?orbalar?n? ve dut ?urubu, demirhindi, mellengi? kavhvesi ve m?rra gibi i?eceklerini de unutmamak gerek. Hangi g?n hangi yeme?in pi?ti?i kesinlikle belli olmayan mek?na, lezzete d??k?n, ke?iflere a??ksan?z ve en ?nemlisi s?rprizlerden ho?lan?yorsan?z mutlaka gidin!"
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